Happy Shiva’s Birthday. Wake up, leave the house under the cover of darkness, half asleep, find a taxi and convince him to drive you to Pashupatinath for 300 rupees. Check. Innocently walk past a police barrier and bypass massive queues of devotees waiting in line to be blessed and tikkaed. Check. Chiya for breakfast. Check. Breathe. Wander aimlessly in amusement observing the garish light decorations contrasting with early morning glow of the sun and the distinct festival feel of the event.
Being the Holy Hindu Kingdom that Nepal is, masses flock to the sacred site of Pashupatinath just outside of Kathmandu on Shiva’s Birthday, an auspicious day for any big events (weddings, funerals, baptisms etc.). So it’s packed. Crowded. I was warned of the various naked sadhus, paranoid marijuana and hash vendors (the only day when smoking weed is legal because it pleases Lord Shiva), the groping of foreigners, the desperation of the people, the stench of the river, flea ridden monkeys, diseased beggars. A pretty unpleasant picture which I’m pleased to say was not at all what the experience turned out to be like. Instead, I saw families playing badminton, people quietly queuing (actually queuing!) in an orderly fashion to be blessed, free chiya and water stands, toilets (!), sweets, popcorn and cotton candy vendors, only half-naked sadhus, and marijuana being given away because the selling was made illegal. Children break dancing, sadhu’s meditating in unbelievably cool tents and gear, head to toe in white body paint. I have never seen so many dread-locked beards or such high mounds of hair on people’s heads. Mass migration of monkeys playing and frolicking in what appeared to be a zoo.
It was lovely and atmospheric, and by 9:30 we were sitting a 20 min walk from Pashupatinath, in a breakfast bar in Boudha.
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