'Tis the season to be jolly and eat like nobody's business. Already tummies are starting to swell with contented pies and cookies. Turkeys have been distributed (although this is really a North American tradition that has been adopted by Salvadorans), fragrant spices and oranges bought, festive pupuseadas organized, and pre-ordered tamales collected. The freezer has been filled with chilaquilas and chancletas alike, and various new years gifts, including calendars, cookies and pomelo fruits have been distributed to friends and family. I have yet to see mariachis though.
Traditionally, Christmas - although the more I think about it the more alien the concept of Christmas, the turkey, the presents, the pine tree, becomes. I seriously doubt the Pipiles, the Cacahuiles and the Lenca celebrated Christmas. They probably celebrated the end of the year though, much like the Maya did by building a fire pit to bid farewell to the old year and welcome the new dawn with a fresh bed of pine needles, rosemary and incense. But back to food and El Salvador. Sadly, not very much is known about the traditions of the indigenous people of El Salvador and traditional Christmas means nothing to me. I do know however that before the turkey revolution, it was customary to eat tamales.
Tamales come in various shapes, sizes and flavours. Each central american country has a version of its own, with its own unique combination of flavours. Generally though, a tamal consists of some sort of corn dough wrapped in a large leaf. Mexicans and Guatemalans enjoy dry tamales wrapped in corn husks. When unwrapped the inner dough is very bready and delicious with cream or cottage cheese. They make a great travel snack and are easily portable.
Salvadoran tamales are decidedly juicier. They take two days to make, and tamaleras - women who make tamales, are known for their upper body strength needed for the continuous mixing of the corn masa over an open fire. As well as the masa and the banana leaves which need to be prepared in advance, a chicken broth flavoured with tomatoes, potatoes, chickpeas, green olives, capers and raisins is cooked on a low heat overnight. Then with a process also employed by pupuseras, the dough is skillfully shaped to resemble a canoe, filled with delicious broth, bits of chicken and vegetables, sealed, wrapped in banana leaves and finally, boiled for 30 minutes. The end result is a type of congealed pie filling nested within a packet of banana leaves which can be enjoyed on its own or with a side of tortillas.
Now, you might be thinking, "Salvadoran food is not very vegetarian friendly" and you would be right. It is not. However, the tamal offers one of those rare instances where a vegetarian option is available in the form of tamal de chipilín, chipilín being a little local herb I haven't quite got my head around yet. Although it is widely used in Central American and Mexican cuisine and has a pleasant enough taste, it is almost instantly forgetable. I could not, in fact cannot describe its flavour. Nevertheless, chipilín tamales are tasty and suitable for all except vegans. That's another story.
Traditionally, Christmas - although the more I think about it the more alien the concept of Christmas, the turkey, the presents, the pine tree, becomes. I seriously doubt the Pipiles, the Cacahuiles and the Lenca celebrated Christmas. They probably celebrated the end of the year though, much like the Maya did by building a fire pit to bid farewell to the old year and welcome the new dawn with a fresh bed of pine needles, rosemary and incense. But back to food and El Salvador. Sadly, not very much is known about the traditions of the indigenous people of El Salvador and traditional Christmas means nothing to me. I do know however that before the turkey revolution, it was customary to eat tamales.
Tamales come in various shapes, sizes and flavours. Each central american country has a version of its own, with its own unique combination of flavours. Generally though, a tamal consists of some sort of corn dough wrapped in a large leaf. Mexicans and Guatemalans enjoy dry tamales wrapped in corn husks. When unwrapped the inner dough is very bready and delicious with cream or cottage cheese. They make a great travel snack and are easily portable.
Salvadoran tamales are decidedly juicier. They take two days to make, and tamaleras - women who make tamales, are known for their upper body strength needed for the continuous mixing of the corn masa over an open fire. As well as the masa and the banana leaves which need to be prepared in advance, a chicken broth flavoured with tomatoes, potatoes, chickpeas, green olives, capers and raisins is cooked on a low heat overnight. Then with a process also employed by pupuseras, the dough is skillfully shaped to resemble a canoe, filled with delicious broth, bits of chicken and vegetables, sealed, wrapped in banana leaves and finally, boiled for 30 minutes. The end result is a type of congealed pie filling nested within a packet of banana leaves which can be enjoyed on its own or with a side of tortillas.
Now, you might be thinking, "Salvadoran food is not very vegetarian friendly" and you would be right. It is not. However, the tamal offers one of those rare instances where a vegetarian option is available in the form of tamal de chipilín, chipilín being a little local herb I haven't quite got my head around yet. Although it is widely used in Central American and Mexican cuisine and has a pleasant enough taste, it is almost instantly forgetable. I could not, in fact cannot describe its flavour. Nevertheless, chipilín tamales are tasty and suitable for all except vegans. That's another story.
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