Cycling through Riesling country

Drying lavender, ED 2014

Before coming to the Philippines, I spent some time in Germany cleaning, fixing  and weather proofing windows and furniture as well as gardening, harvesting and drying something like 300 lavender plants. It's surprisingly nice to sit on a hill of lavender surrounded by bumble and honey bees gently ignoring you as they go about the very important task of gathering nectar for their hives. Honey bees are pretty harmless, and won't commit suicide by stinging you as long as you don't approach them in an aggressive manner. One of these days I hope to convince my parents to add a beehive to their garden, but that's a ways away yet.

I'm afraid the German country side isn't in the top 20 summer destination of 2014, nor does it have the romantic appeal of French or Italian countryside but that's quite alright with me. The days are warm, the sun comes out during the day, and we have the most magnificent summer thunderstorms in the evenings. Thick forests and cool freshwater lagoons offer relief from the heat and you can feed yourself off countless fruit trees and berry bushes. If you're really interested, you can follow the fruit trails all the way into Riesling country, either by cycling or navigating along the Mosel river from Koblenz to Trier (app. 200km) and beyond.

Unlike the Rhein which is a busy highway of cargo and heavy transport ships, the Mosel river is winding country road which offers views of countless rows of wine vineyards. The best time to cycle along the river is in the morning before 11 or after 3 as dusk begins to settle. At these times the heat is not as severe and you will save yourself having to collapse in the mid-day sun  under a withered dry tree offering sparse shade. If this does happen however, rest assured no one will bother you, although at least try to make sure you are on the river bank so you can enjoy a quick dip when you wake up.

People in this part of Germany are very friendly and for the most part helpful - maybe they're used to seeing lots of lost cyclists wandering the streets of their towns. The towns themselves like Zell for example, are beautiful and small, paved with cobble stones and full of old establishments each offering samples of the best wine in the valley. If you find yourself in Zell, watch out for the legendary black cat (Zeller schwarze Katz) which protects the wine of the area from thieving merchants.

The food on offer along the river, is simple and filling German cuisine. If you are staying in a hotel that does breakfast in the morning, think muesli, fruit, yogurt, wild honey, perfectly prepared soft-boiled eggs, German rye bread, nutella and selection of cold cuts (cheeses, hams, cucumber and tomato). To be honest, this was the best breakfast I have ever had at a hotel. I have never been so excited over a selection of four different kinds of German bread, three different kinds of honey, and perfect soft-boiled eggs buried in sand. Moving on to lunch, if you can stomach it after your filling and nutritious breakfast, summer is the season for delicious pfifferlinge (otherwise mushrooms or chanterelles) which are lightly cooked with butter and a pinch of salt and pepper, served over toast or pasta. Alternatively you can enjoy some flammkuchen, or tarte flambee, a thin-crusted Alsatian pizza of sorts topped with creme fraiche, thinly sliced onions and bacon. Fortunately, some taverns now also offer vegetarian alternatives which saves some the tedious hassle of picking off the tiny bits of bacon. Finally if you're starving for grub at dinner time after your 60km cycle sans lunch, a generous portion of potato, sausage and onion casserole awaits you next to a pint of wheat or white beer. Alternatively, a leafy goat's cheese salad with a glass of Riesling will also do. After this you're off to bed for a good night's rest before an early start the next day.

Cycling selfie, CD 2014

Birds

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Last night I discovered Nepalese beer, Everest Beer, and the horrible hangovers it induces after a mere 2 bottles. Therefore, my first free day (and it was a beautiful one at that with lots of sun and warm air) was spent lying in bed feeling like a sailor taking his first steps on land after at year a sea and ends up walking into ships anchor. There was a lot of pain and nausea involved. Either Everest beer is made with a ton of chemicals or one simply should not drink at high altitudes. Or both.

Nevertheless, I did get the chance to appreciate the sounds of Kathmandu during the day, which were actually really soothing. My apartment in the suburb of Patan has a view of an overgrown garden where lots of animals seem to have made themselves comfortable, and if it wasn't for the big trees and miniature jungle that has flourished in this little garden, I would have a fantastic view of the surrounding mountains. Never mind. Instead, I get to hear lots of birds in song, twittering and gossiping away at each other, making shrieks of alarm at the passing vultures, and sweetly calling their young ones to bed. In the distance, I could hear a man sending out his greetings to the world with many repeated hellos, as if chanting in not so silent meditation. Not once did I hear a construction site.

Tomorrow will be better. I will buy a bicycle, and make my way to the edges of Kathmandu city and explore the area. I will also buy warm sweaters, blankets and a pillow which is at the very least softer than a plank of wood.