Showing posts with label Portugal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Portugal. Show all posts

Friday, August 29, 2014

Idanha-a-Nova: Boom Boom

"Ah, you're looking for boom boom", fistpump.
"Er, yes, the festival".
"Sim, o bum bum" fistpump, fistpump, "you have to go back where you came from, back to Idanha-a-Nova where you follow the river, mumble mumble, Barrancos mumble take a left mumble. But whatever you do, do not cross the river. Then you follow that road, mumble mumble mumble mumble and there, you ask for directions again. Ok?"
"O-ok" I have no idea, "muito obrigada e boa noite".

I turn the little Fiat 500 around and leave the thin smiling older lady standing by the road near the border of Spain and Portugal. We are once again driving back towards Idanha-a-Nova, towards a setting sun, towards the policeman who told us to come in this direction in the first place.

"Do you know where you're going?"
"No, but we'll figure it out".
"Well, if we pass that camper van again we can ask them for directions. They looked like Boomers."
"These guys also look like Boomers, and they look just as lost as we are". We pass a car parked on a side lane leading to the middle of a wheat field, interior lights on, a big map held up comically covering the faces of two blonde hunched figures. They could also have been spies.

After about an hour of driving up and down the same 20km stretch of road between Idanha-A-Nova and the Spanish border, asking for directions two more times, once to that same policeman who sent us the wrong way and another to the French group in the camper van who took the time to explain that all policemen are idiots in broken English, we finally found the way to the entrance of Boom Festival. We also found the 2 hour long queue of cars waiting to be let onto the grounds. In fairness, it was another 20 km to the actual entrance from the point where we finally joined the queue. 20 km at a snail's pace. 3 hours later, just after midnight, we were in.

The week that followed was one of the best festival experiences I have ever had. Disregarding the music which is where the festival gets its name from (psy trance = boom boom), this was a gathering of 30,000 like minded, socially, environmentally, and politically conscious individuals who were out to have dance, have fun and share the love. It's hard to talk about the festival without sounding cheesy, but what struck me most was the open-mindedness and genuine kindness of complete strangers towards one another. As an example, even after 7 days of full on party mode, there was very little litter to be seen on the festival grounds. Communal areas such as vegetable and herb gardens, shared kitchens, cafes and tree nests were kept clean by the festival goers themselves. Bending over the mud ovens puzzling over where to get more kindling from, someone suddenly appears beside you with an arms' full of firewood. Suddenly instead of cooking a meal for a small group of friends, you become part of a shared feast exchanging ideas and tips, sharing the workload. If only large cities had more communal spaces like that, as well as the conscious mind to be more respectful towards each other.

Mind you, I am not entirely sure whether such a social system would work for more than a week. The novelty might wear off after a while and you could find yourself searching for a way to escape the crowds and the noise. You could end up in a wheat field surrounded by golden morning light, glad to have found some solitude at last, but wary of the harsh glaring sun which will quickly make its way of the bright blue sky.

For the most part though, the festival was truly educational and eye opening experience. I learned about water treatment systems which use different kinds of grasses and mosses to purify water, without the need of using chemicals. I also learned about midwifery and the fact that it is actually illegal to practice this in some countries. Who knew having a child at home could be so threatening for the medical profession. I learned different theories about the psychology of relationships, models for efficient and self-sustaining communities as well as the role of the individual on the political system. I even met Benny Wenda, the Laani tribe leader from West Papua who talked about the genocide of his people and civil war that is going on there right now. Turns out he's been exiled from his country and now lives in Oxford. There is a recording of him speaking Laani on Language Landscape.

View from a shepherd's house at Idanha-A-Nova

The trip ends with Inti and I camping near an abandoned house on the hillside of Idanha-da-Nova. Nothing obstructs our view, the distant sounds of Boom echo in the valley and mountains, our bellies are full of watermelon and homemade tomato jam given to us by kind, jabbering old ladies dressed in black, ready for Sunday evening mass. Tomorrow we wake up at the crack of dawn and make for Lisbon. We are ready for our next trip: Manila.

www.boomfestival.org
www.freewestpapua.org

Monday, October 21, 2013

Portugal - Caves and Dinosaurs

Seriously beautiful caves, dinosaurs footprings, markets full of goat cheese, fresh olives, figs, absolutely massive food portions, port, 65 centavos for an espresso, 1 euro for a beer - who wouldn't want to live in Portugal?

Part of the fun of visiting new countries for me is the excitement and delight of tasting everything. Nothing beats going to a bakery, or a pasteleria in this case, first thing in the morning before people head off to work to join the line of old men standing hunched over the wooden counter enjoying their bica (espresso). The owner of the establishment doesn't even blink at the sight of two foreign girls timidly tinkling their way into the shop. He simply makes us two bicas and places them on the counter, gesturing they are for our consumption. Some pasteis de nata and orange pastries later, we head back to the science center for serious linguistic conversations.

Centro Ciencia Viva do Alviela is a science center situated on the Praia Fluvial dos Olhos d'Agua do Alviela (The fluid beach of the eyes of the Alviela waters - is the literal translation, but basically it sits next to a river which goes through a large natural park). The park itself is great for going on day treks, and the science center offers visitors a place to stay for very affordable prices, as well as light refreshements, and a themed ride for all members of the population who are over 1.2m tall. You get to ride an asteroid.

While staying at the science centre is very affordable, it can be difficult to access by anything other than car, and while it does offer some services, the one shops opening times are from 10:00-19:00. So it's best to come prepared. The nearby town Alcanena has plenty of shopping opportunities, bakeries, restaurants and wool shops to keep your heart content. The centre of the town is made up of an old church, a market which is open on weekends, and various hair dressers. 

All around this area are various caves, or grutas, such as Mira de Aire which are also worthwhile seeing, especially when you get to have a full five course dinner in one of these. I have a sneaky suspicion such dinners may only be for special occasions though. Even if you're not having a spectacular meal however, you will have spectacular views of underground rivers and fountains, and caves that are tactfully lit with warm light, and might even find some unique fossils and dinosaur teeth. 

Lastly, and by far my favorite experience were the dinosaur footprints. Driving another half hour north from Alcanena and Minde, towards a town called Fatima, you will get lost and end up going on a free urban tourist tour of rural Portugal. I'm not kidding, there are actually signs which sign post this route as the "urban tourist tour". It is a sweet little tour which takes you through old villages. You see plently of ancient olive trees, tiny houses and churches made of white stone squares which look like they could crumble into a pile at any moment, as well as sheep and cows. Eventually though, you will arrive at a derelict looking park with old iron structures representing sauropods, pay the three euro entrance fee and embark on the most exciting 40 minutes of your life. If you're into dinosaurs that is. Even if you are not that impressed by dinosaurs, you will be impressed by the view of the Portuguese country side from atop a high marble cliff, not to mention the fact that you actually get to step in dinosaur footprints. Your foot will be inside a giant dinosaur footprint. I'm excited just remembering the experience. I'm so excited I'm finding it very difficult to NOT write in caps. Definitely one of my top 100 experiences.

VISIT PORTUGAL!